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Hamilton's journey to the kitchen of Prune was a long one. Ingredient lists are long, but dishes like Cod in Saffron Broth with Leeks, Potatoes and Savoy Cabbage are, and were, more than worth the wait. (In fact, she recently called it a "recipe companion book to the memoir.") That means: part Italian, part French, a little bit messy and really, really beautiful. The recipes in Prune, the book, are typical Hamilton. In the book, Hamilton recalls her childhood, growing up on a farm and next to the apron of her gentle, nurturing mother, who instilled in her girl the feral pleasures of food: bright, fresh peas in a bushel basket, wild mushrooms pulled from deep in the woods. That story, and many wonderful others, was first told in her ecstatically praised 2011 memoir, Blood, Bones and Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef. Prune gets its name from Hamilton's much-loved 15-year-old East Village bistro, which, in turn got its name from the nickname Hamilton received from her mother as a child. There, at the end, you realize, this is a warm kitchen, a strong kitchen, a proud kitchen, in which not a drop is wasted.

In Hamilton's hands, these turn into feats of alchemy: zesty powders, smooth sauces, creamy soups.

The chapter's name is a witty contradiction, as what the section actually does is offer ways to give second, sometimes even third, lives to kitchen scraps including, but not limited to: limp celery, wine dregs and tomato skins. At the tail end of Prune, the new cookbook by renowned New York chef Gabrielle Hamilton, there's a section called Garbage.